Day 6: Jerusalem

On our 6th day in Palestine, Jerusalem was the destination. However, the day started with a somber note as a young 14-year-old camper faced the arbitrariness of the occupation, being denied entry at the Qalandia checkpoint despite having all the necessary documents. Such inconsistencies are poignant reminders of the apartheid regime's strict enforcement. Shaking off the initial setback, our journey led us to Jerusalem’s ancient walls, where we got off the bus at the Magharebi Gate, termed the 'Dung Gate' by the British colonial forces. This gate leads to the Maghrebi Bridge which provides access to the Aqsa Compound, a path resulting from the destruction of the Moroccan Quarter by the Israelis in 1967. The Quarter was built by the Muslim armies who hailed from Morocco and liberated Jerusalem from the crusades. The Maghrebi gate became the tourist entry point to the mosque after a devastating arson attack by an Australian Jewish settler in 1969 which annihilated one of the two Salah Eldin Mehrabs in Palestine. However, Israelis used this as tactic to ”divide and conquer”, creating a complex process of accessing the mosque that assess the religion of entrants, defining which gate they can enter from according to religion, not connection to the land. Despite previous ease for Muslims at the Maghrebi Gate, today's arbitrary rule meant splitting our group, leading one part through the Wailing Wall plaza—a first for Go Palestine. Eventually, our spirits were lifted as we gathered at Al Aqsa. It was heartening to see our campers perform the ritual of wudu and pray at both the Dome of the Rock and Al Aqsa. An impromptu photo session followed, after which we wandered through the historic Souq Al Qataneen, with campers getting a brief, yet precious, 10-minute shopping spree. Our exploration continued through the Via Dolorosa (Tareeq Al Wad) to the Austrian Hospice. Here, we highlighted how empires, recognizing Jerusalem's spiritual significance, established hospices for their pilgrims and dignitaries. The Hospice also offered a spectacular vantage point of the Old City, leading to more snapshots capturing the essence of Jerusalem. Our journey pressed on to the iconic Damascus Gate and then Aftimos Square, where the aroma of shawerma and falafel beckoned us for lunch. Rejuvenated, we proceeded to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, where campers prayed at both Golgotha and the tomb of Christ. As the day waned, our final stop was at New Gate which opened up an opportunity for our campers to experience Jerusalem on their own terms, cherishing personal moments in the Old City's walls. Our day's odyssey culminated as we exited through Jaffa Gate where we got back on the bus to Ramallah to be faced with two checkpoint closures, a sad reminder of the reality of the occupation and apartheid in Palestine.